In the realm of fine jewelry, the name on the clasp often matters as much as the stones themselves. “Signed” jewelry—pieces created by heritage houses like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., and Harry Winston—commands a significant premium in the secondary market compared to “unsigned” custom pieces of equal carat weight.

The “Signed Premium”

When we appraise a piece for a collateral loan, we look for these hallmarks. A vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklace or a Cartier Panthère ring holds intrinsic design value that transcends the raw cost of gold and diamonds. This is because these houses control their supply and maintain a legacy of craftsmanship that is recognized globally.

Investment Advice

If you are curating a collection for investment purposes, we always recommend seeking out signed, period-correct pieces. While a custom piece from a local jeweler may be beautiful, it will typically be valued based on its scrap metal and wholesale diamond value. A signed piece, however, retains brand equity. When the time comes to leverage these assets for liquidity, the “signed premium” ensures a substantially higher loan offer.